The collectible plush toy Labubu made headlines last week when British Prime Minister Keir Starmer visited China for a high-stakes diplomatic reset. Among the touted achievements was maker Pop Mart’s announcement of a massive Oxford Street flagship to anchor its European expansion. For the UK, this meant inward investment and jobs. For China, it was a soft-power masterstroke, proving that cultural relevance exports better through “ugly-cute” charisma than stiff officialdom.
The toys, with their serrated teeth, unsettlingly wide eyes, and chaotic nine-toothed grins, have ascended to global stardom. These small monsters have become exhibits in how we define value. Even adults now treat them like holy relics.
Labubu is intentionally “ugly.” Designer Kasing Lung drew on Nordic folklore to create something primal and mischievous, rejecting the sterile perfection of traditional dolls. But the “ugly-cute” aesthetic is merely the hook. The frenzy is propelled by curated rarity.
During COVID-19 isolation, the “blind box,” a sealed package concealing which character sits inside, became a vital dopamine delivery system. You aren’t buying a toy; you’re buying a high-stakes gamble. With rare editions commanding premium prices on secondary markets, a $30 impulse purchase transforms into a high-yield asset and a badge of persistence, community status, and luck.
The phenomenon shows that luxury is about signaling, not objects. When a Labubu dangles from a celebrity’s $25,000 Hermès Birkin, it broadcasts pure counter-culture: wealth to afford the bag, playful confidence to subvert its seriousness. It bridges high-brow luxury leather and low-brow plush toys, creating a “clued-in” status symbol. The pairing isn’t a clash but a narrative upgrade.
Idea for Impact: Labubu is proof that luxury is the story. People crave not objects, but the stories they enable. A $30 toy becomes priceless through scarcity, surprise, and status, demonstrating that value is psychological, not material.